Day 18, 19 & 20 – 2nd,3rd and 4th March – Back across the Scotia Sea – At Port Stanley
Well! Hello from the Falkland Islands ……a place I have always want to visit. It is one of the places that has over the centuries been subject to a number of arguments as to who has sovereignty and the most recent historic case of this question being raised again was within my lifetime and culminated in the Falkland’s War, following on from the Argentinian invasion in 1982 under General Galltirarie’s rule.
So last night during the late evening we anchored offshore for Port Stanley, this followed a very calm two day crossing from our final point of call, Elsehul, in South Georgia some 750 nautical miles to the south.
During the two days we enjoyed many talks and lectures on topics including, How do whales dive? The Falkland Islands. An introduction to the islands and their conflict status. 128 years of National Geographic Photography. How do divers dive? Plus several more, all very good stuff. And as I have said before I never expected the quantity or quality of the learning on this trip.
So back to the trip and our arrival at Port Stanley, interesting snippet of information the place is call Stanley, and the port is called Port Stanley. So after anchoring in the bay overnight I hear the anchor being raised at dawn and we dock at the port. Quite strange see a form of civilisation again and to be leaving the ship on foot rather that by zodiac. So we have some options today I choose to walk into Stanley in the morning and roam around on my own, rather than going on anything organised and in the afternoon join a hike to Mount Tumbledown were one of the famous battles was fought by the Scotts Guards during Falkland’s War in 1982.
In the morning following customs formalities completed by the ships personnel we are informed that we can go ashore. Buses are not due for another 45 minutes. I decide to disembark and walk into town and was pleased I did. It was quiet; I think I just saw the town of 2500 inhabitants before the tourists arrived. It is a small town and I visited the major landmarks including the Cathedral with its Whalebone Arch. The museum is a must; I spent considerable time there very informative about Stanley and The Falkland’s over the centuries.
After returning to the ship for a short while to change in to clothing appropriate for the afternoon hike I returned to shore to catch the shuttle. Interestingly very few people signed up for the Hike to Mount Tumbledown one of the famous battlegrounds of the Falklands War. We had 2 local guides, 2 crewmembers and 10 guests if I recall correctly. After a short drive we got out of the bus and started our hike across the peaty ground below, seeing areas where land mines have since been cleared. Old peat bogs where people used to collected their fuel, and interestingly several craters where the area was bombed but due to the nature of the soft peaty land apparently the impact of these bombs was minimal as the force was soaked up in many cases by the land. We continued towards Mount Tumbledown past Mount William (I think) being educated by our guide Brian, a Falkland Islander all his life, on the land, the plant life animals and the war, very informative. We continued to the summit and spent a few moments at the small manorial at the top set up in memory of the Scotts Guardsmen who lost their lives on Tumbledown an at the same time seeing evidence of the Argentinian dugouts, and remembering how many died also in this war of 74 days duration. I believe between both forces some 700-800 souls lost their lives here and in the waters around this area. As we walk back down we could see Stanley in the distance the small town of some 2500 inhabitants. A poignant walk.
We then got dropped back in Stanley just in time for a quick pint in the local pub with some newfound friends and back to Orion. Once on board Orion immediately cast off to head for the West Falklands for first thing the next day, Carcass Island and New Island.
Day 21 – 5th March – West Falklands
The last day! This is our last day of exploration in this amazing part of the world.First stop Carcass Island, a wet landing from the zodiacs onto the sandy beach called Leopard Beach on a lovely blue sky sunny morning to see many penguins cautiously staying out of the sea to avoid cruising leopard seals just off shore looking for breakfast! Then on for a beautiful walk of just under 4 miles across the hills along the coast to the Carcass Island Settlement, on route just enjoying the scenery and wildlife. Reminded me a bit of Scotland. Then back to the ship around midday to set off for our final landing destination New Island.
Finally departing Orion around 3.30pm on a zodiac we are warned this would be a wet ride as the wind was up and white horses abound on the waves – so ensure all cameras etc. are well protected. All aboard and we are off, then as if we have not see enough fantastic things on this trip all of a sudden our zodiac is surrounded by a pod of dolphins jumping and dancing so close – playing almost with zodiac – but of course no pictures as per the instructions we had no camera’s to hand, however watching people try to get to their cameras was a tad funny. We landed then hiked a mile or so into a very strong wind to the cliffs on the other side of the island. We arrived at a step cliff dropping down to the sea the noise of birds was very apparent, and here, because of the wind we could see many of the fabulous birds I have mentioned before including Black-browed Albatross, rockhopper penguins and many others
And that was that, it the last landing. I will end there for now as we head for another day and a half at sea back to Ushuaia – Chile and then to start my journey home to Singapore. But fear not I will provide a final update on the remainder of my trip in the next day or so please stay tuned…..
Hi Nigel
Bernadette has just provided me with your blog site. The adventure is awe inspiring and I am so jealous!!!! Well maybe not of the weather but the adventure. I have been following your trip through Annie’s Facebook so I have got to view all of your beautiful pictures…..You look as if you have had a fabulous time.
Love Hx
Hello Helen
Lovely to hear from you – yes this is a trip, that frankly I cannot put into words how incredible it is. I am so very very fortunate to be able to do this. I have always wanted to do this trip, and AM has been so suportive but it has totally exceded my expectatons.
You have seen not even 1% of the pictures …so look forward to an even more boring Nigel ha ha
Hope you and Joe are good …also cleary been thinking about Benny
N xx
Mr Ware, what an absolutely fabulous trip this must have been. I’ve been reading your blog with interest and a large degree of envy! How marvellous that you took the opportunity (supported by your wonderful wife of course) and ‘went for it’.
Your photo’s are stunning, as are your descriptions of each place. I think travel writing should be your next venture…….
Thank you for providing such an interesting read. Both Tony and I look forward to one day hearing all about it in person.
With love from
Shaneen and Tony
Hello Shaneen, Thanks for the kind words – I am glad you and Tony have enjoyed, you are right without Ann Marie’s support this would not have been possible. It has been the most fabulous trip, but now really looking forward to get home to my wife. I suggest you put by at least a week away for the personal version ha ha. Thanks again N xx