Month: March 2016

Day 22 to 24 – 6th to 8th March – The Journey Home 

Two days travel – in the last two days I have travelled from my final destination in the Falkland Islands to arrive in Santiago – Chile via Ushuaia – Argentina to start the final leg of my journey home to Singapore.

I left home on the evening of the 14th February 2016 and I will arrive back in Singapore on the afternoon of 10th March almost a month later. I have had the most incredible trip and that is a HUGE understatement.

The trip has been a trip of three parts Antarctica, South Georgia then The Falkland Islands. It has be a trip of amazing landscapes, incredible oceans, fascinating wildlife on land, in the sea and air, and last but not least, history of the polar explorers such as Shackleton re tracing some of his journey and visiting his final resting place, along with the history and place’s in The Falklands…and more and more and more.

I have seen ice like I have never imagined. I have seen whales including Blue, Humpback, Orca and every type of penguin from the Emperor to the Chinstrap. Birds from the huge Wandering Albatrosses through to the tiny South Georgia Pipit. Elephant Seals to tiny seal pups.

But it is now over, 20 nights at sea on The National Geographic Orion, 3850 nautical miles of sailing and as I sit here awaiting to connect to my flight home to Singapore and writing the final post on the “Trip to Antarctica”. I think to myself what a very lucky guy I am to have been able to make this trip which was planned almost two years ago. A huge thank you to my lovely wife Ann Marie who has always told me to follow my dream, and go do it, and now I have. Now very much looking forward to get back to see Ann Marie, it has been a long time, a long way away.

To all those that have followed my ramblings, I hope you have enjoyed and thanks for the feedback and interest. If anyone wants to know anything further about my trip please just get in touch. I am sure I can be really boring, with such comments as would you like to see my 3000+ photographs?

Take care everyone

Bye for now

Nigel

Day 18, 19 & 20 – 2^nd,3^rd and 4th March – Back across the Scotia Sea – At Port Stanley

Well! Hello from the Falkland Islands ……a place I have always want to visit. It is one of the places that has over the centuries been subject to a number of arguments as to who has sovereignty and the most recent historic case of this question being raised again was within my lifetime and culminated in the Falkland’s War, following on from the Argentinian invasion in 1982 under General Galltirarie’s rule.

So last night during the late evening we anchored offshore for Port Stanley, this followed a very calm two day crossing from our final point of call, Elsehul, in South Georgia some 750 nautical miles to the south.

During the two days we enjoyed many talks and lectures on topics including, How do whales dive? The Falkland Islands. An introduction to the islands and their conflict status. 128 years of National Geographic Photography. How do divers dive? Plus several more, all very good stuff. And as I have said before I never expected the quantity or quality of the learning on this trip.

So back to the trip and our arrival at Port Stanley, interesting snippet of information the place is call Stanley, and the port is called Port Stanley. So after anchoring in the bay overnight I hear the anchor being raised at dawn and we dock at the port. Quite strange see a form of civilisation again and to be leaving the ship on foot rather that by zodiac. So we have some options today I choose to walk into Stanley in the morning and roam around on my own, rather than going on anything organised and in the afternoon join a hike to Mount Tumbledown were one of the famous battles was fought by the Scotts Guards during Falkland’s War in 1982.

In the morning following customs formalities completed by the ships personnel we are informed that we can go ashore. Buses are not due for another 45 minutes. I decide to disembark and walk into town and was pleased I did. It was quiet; I think I just saw the town of 2500 inhabitants before the tourists arrived. It is a small town and I visited the major landmarks including the Cathedral with its Whalebone Arch. The museum is a must; I spent considerable time there very informative about Stanley and The Falkland’s over the centuries.

After returning to the ship for a short while to change in to clothing appropriate for the afternoon hike I returned to shore to catch the shuttle. Interestingly very few people signed up for the Hike to Mount Tumbledown one of the famous battlegrounds of the Falklands War. We had 2 local guides, 2 crewmembers and 10 guests if I recall correctly. After a short drive we got out of the bus and started our hike across the peaty ground below, seeing areas where land mines have since been cleared. Old peat bogs where people used to collected their fuel, and interestingly several craters where the area was bombed but due to the nature of the soft peaty land apparently the impact of these bombs was minimal as the force was soaked up in many cases by the land. We continued towards Mount Tumbledown past Mount William (I think) being educated by our guide Brian, a Falkland Islander all his life, on the land, the plant life animals and the war, very informative. We continued to the summit and spent a few moments at the small manorial at the top set up in memory of the Scotts Guardsmen who lost their lives on Tumbledown an at the same time seeing evidence of the Argentinian dugouts, and remembering how many died also in this war of 74 days duration. I believe between both forces some 700-800 souls lost their lives here and in the waters around this area. As we walk back down we could see Stanley in the distance the small town of some 2500 inhabitants. A poignant walk.

 

We then got dropped back in Stanley just in time for a quick pint in the local pub with some newfound friends and back to Orion. Once on board Orion immediately cast off to head for the West Falklands for first thing the next day, Carcass Island and New Island.

 

Day 21 – 5th March – West Falklands

The last day! This is our last day of exploration in this amazing part of the world.First stop Carcass Island, a wet landing from the zodiacs onto the sandy beach called Leopard Beach on a lovely blue sky sunny morning to see many penguins cautiously staying out of the sea to avoid cruising leopard seals just off shore looking for breakfast! Then on for a beautiful walk of just under 4 miles across the hills along the coast to the Carcass Island Settlement, on route just enjoying the scenery and wildlife. Reminded me a bit of Scotland. Then back to the ship around midday to set off for our final landing destination New Island.

Finally departing Orion around 3.30pm on a zodiac we are warned this would be a wet ride as the wind was up and white horses abound on the waves – so ensure all cameras etc. are well protected. All aboard and we are off, then as if we have not see enough fantastic things on this trip all of a sudden our zodiac is surrounded by a pod of dolphins jumping and dancing so close – playing almost with zodiac – but of course no pictures as per the instructions we had no camera’s to hand, however watching people try to get to their cameras was a tad funny. We landed then hiked a mile or so into a very strong wind to the cliffs on the other side of the island. We arrived at a step cliff dropping down to the sea the noise of birds was very apparent, and here, because of the wind we could see many of the fabulous birds I have mentioned before including Black-browed Albatross, rockhopper penguins and many others

And that was that, it the last landing. I will end there for now as we head for another day and a half at sea back to Ushuaia – Chile and then to start my journey home to Singapore. But fear not I will provide a final update on the remainder of my trip in the next day or so please stay tuned…..

 

 

Day 16 – 29th February Hercules Bay and Prion Island

Following on from yesterdays “full on day” this morning started calmly with no wake up call, that said the motion of the ship and the expectation of what may happen today never leaves you sleeping in too long, it is always great to go up to the bridge or on deck first thing.

Everyone on board is now conscious that the second phase, South Georgia, of this three phase trip is nearing the end and we will soon be sailing on to The Falkland’s, that said we still have the best part of two days left here.

We are sailing towards Hercules Bay the plan is to anchor there and take a zodiac tour of the bay, it is full of wildlife, including fur and elephant seals, along with Macaroni penguins and nesting wandering Albatross. This morning the driver of our zodiac was Captain Martin himself. The bay is only 500 meters wide with towering cliffs very spectacular and picturesque.

After an hour or so in the bay the Orion sails on towards Prion Island. The morning gently roles on, the peace is suddenly broken with a very excited Expedition Leader, Doug, announcing that the bridge believe they have sighted Blue Whales (can be identified by the shape and height of the blow I have learnt) so get on deck, they are a rare sight. Everyone rushes to get warm clothes on grab cameras and binoculars and get on deck.

There they are two blue whales a mother and calf, we are told the mother is in the region of 33m long weighing 150tons, and the calf is the size of a humpback whale – what a sight – we watch for about half an hour before moving on, even the crew are going wow! they are not seen often, in fact after this the joke has become what have we left to see, we have really ticked the list on this trip.

Following all that excitement we continue to sail north into a wildlife rich area known as the Bay of Isles, these islands are on the Atlantic Ocean side of South Georgia Island. We anchor just off Prion Island. This island is “Specially Protected Area” as designated by the South Georgia Government and only a certain number of people allowed on the island at any one time. So we go ashore in two waves. The highlight of this visit is to see Wandering Albatross on their nests and we do. The Government has constructed two viewing platforms here, connected by a boardwalk, which provide excellent access. The rat free island (you recall I mentioned the rat eradication program) has meant that this area has become a mecca for these magnificent birds to breed. In additions the once very rate South Georgia pipits and burrowing petrels have also made a great comeback here.

So the penultimate day at South Georgia Island we now head out for our last day at Prince Olav Harbour and Elsehul.

Day 17 – 1st March Prince Olav Harbour & Elsehul

This is the last day in this part of the world. In the morning we had the option of kayaking or a hike. I chose the hike in Prince Olav Harbour. This site is full of history, explored by Captain James Cook, the harbour was well know to sealers and 20^th century whalers.

In the afternoon we sailed to Elsehul one of the most northern points and we have a short stop here before heading of from South Georgia.

Now we set off over night to head for The Falkland Islands we arrive there after 750 nautical miles, so two days travel at sea arriving early Friday morning, so for the next two days we will be looking out to on the Scotia Sea looking for wildlife. . We have been told to secure our cabins, but the forecast for the crossing is good…be in touch once in Stanley – Falkland Island

 Days 14 to 15  27^th to 28^th February

Hello everyone apologies for the “break in transmission” over the past few days but it has just been such a full on and exciting visit to South Georgia that finding time to post an update has proven a challenge.

Day 14 – 27th February St Andrews Bay & Gold Harbour

Ok – so here we are Saturday (I think) we first head off to St Andrews bay before sunrise, once the crew have checked the weather we receive a wake up call at 05.00AM yes 05.00AM announcing weather is good, coffee is served and we will be heading for the landing spot around 5.30am

As we arrive on the aft deck to board the zodiacs we know we have arrive at the largest King Penguin colony on South Georgia, about 150,000 pairs, plus Elephant, Fur seals, you can smell it! After a few hours on the beach we returned quick warm up, breakfast and then we return to the other end of what is a 3km beach. The prolific amount of wildlife and the activity is incredible, so many things to look at all at the same time. Several hours later we are back on the Orion heading for Gold Harbour.

 

After lunch and on our way to Gold Harbour we are invited to attend a briefing on a hike that is planned for the following day. The “Shackleton Hike” this talk including pictures explains what to expect if you want to go on the hike the following day -more about that in tomorrows update.

So we board the zodiacs for the third time today and head of to Gold bay another home for some 30.000 breading pairs of King Penguins and some big Elephant seals, also many large Albatross and Petrels soaring low across the penguin colony looking for food.

Today was a full on wildlife day – for me it was incredible to see so much wildlife completely oblivious to human presence and with not visible human intervention or pollution, quite different from my daily world.

Day 15 – 28th February Stromeness and Grytviken

 This is a day I have been very much looking forward to, one of the themes of this trip is to follow in the path of Sir Ernest Shackleton and today we get the opportunity walk the last part of his journey over the mountains to Stromeness, where he and two of his crewman, Copt Worseley and Tom Crean, completed their epic and historic journey from Elephant Island, to arrange rescue to save the rest of his crew stranded on Elephant island which if you recall is over 800 nautical miles form my current position.

Our day commences with a early morning call, as I look out of my port hole we are advised we have traveled to Fortuna Bay, named after the ship Fortuna, one of the ships of the Norwegian – Argentine whaling expedition led by C.A.Larsen who established the first permanent whaling station in Grytviken in 1904 to1905. It is 08.00am when we board the zodiacs for the beach to set of on our hike. The hike is about 4km climbing from sea level up the mountains at the rear of the beach to approximately 1000 feet /300m high to join the last leg of Shackleton’s journey as he crossed the mountains on a 36 hour hike across South Georgia from where they had landed their tiny lifeboat to reach help. The weather was very good for us as we hiked up the mountain and getting near the top we come across Crean Lake – so named after Tom Crene, he fell in the lake as he crossed on to its frozen surface. We passed the lake climbed a little further then could see Stromeness and its dilapidated whaling station buildings. I was a tough steep climb down, but was great to do, and think back to what these three great men achieved under Shackleton leadership.

Back on board we eagerly awaited our next stop Grytviken, just around the bay, a short sail.

Early afternoon we had a member of the shore based team at Grytviken come aboard an give a short talk on South Georgia, with specific insight into the “rat eradication program” which appears to have successfully eradicated rat presence on the whole of South Georgia, giving what was almost extinct wildlife species, such as the Pipet birdthe only song bird on the island, the opportunity to significantly recover its numbers here. Soon after this we head for shore at Grytviken, a whaling station that was still in use up to 1965.

First stop, the final resting place of Sir Earnest Shackleton – here one of our excellent expedition leaders – Tom Ritche gave a short talk on the final days of Shackleton followed by us all drinking a toast to the great man.

We then enjoyed tours of Grytviken including its church, museum and buildings, followed by a second tour specifically around the ruins of the whaling station, which albeit a little gruesome, was exceptionally informative

Then finally the sister ship of Orion – The NG Explorer joined us in the next bay to celebrate 100 years Shackleton and 50 years of Lindblad and we were all ferried backyards and forward in zodiacs between ships

 

What a great day! More to follow …………