Month: February 2016

Days 11/12/13 – 24^th to 26^th February

I think must be losing the plot “all at sea” have noticed I have been getting days and dates wrong by one day in recent posts. So to get back on track I am now writing this on Friday 26^th February late in the evening. Since leaving Elephant Island on 24^th we have been steadily steaming across the Scotia Sea for the past two days and have now arrived at the southerly point of South Georgia near Cape Disappointment, so named when Captain Cook, on board his ship Resolution realised he had not found the continent of Antarctica The total distance covered from Elephant Island to South Georgia approximately 830 nautical miles, we reach South Georgia around 6.00 pm today.

So what have we been doing for the last two days, more than I imagined. I think I have mentioned before that I really thought one would have more time to ones self on this trip, just not true. The past two-days have been punctuated with lectures on anything from Antarctic Krill, Photography, Introductions on South Georgia to The history of Shackleton.

As I travel across this huge ocean still with its occasional icebergs, I, along with others onboard cannot start to imagine what Shackleton and his men, in a tiny boat, went though on their journey from Elephant Island to South Georgia. For us, in this vast ship, fully stabilised, it has still been rocky with rolling seas and swells of up to 4 meters, snow, rain etc. and central heating, food, hot showers. Then when we do venture out in our technical clothing to keeps us warm, and we still say we are cold! 100 years ago they had none of this – incredible achievement.

While on the topic of icebergs as we get nearer South Georgia we see more huge tabular icebergs, which we are told, will have traveled the 800 plus miles from Antarctica, I have included pictures with people ie me in to try and give some scale to the pictures.

Arriving at South Georgia we are told zodiac trips are on but it is cold so wrap up and the trips will only be about 20 minutes – on the trip it is cold very cold – feels colder than further south but great trip seeing many Macaroni Penguins, seals and bird life in Cooper Bay just round from Cape Disappointment, The wild life we see in that 20 minutes on the zodiacs is prolific, more excitement.

So that was my Friday arriving in South Georgia, so we now sail round to Saint Andrews Bay for a 5.00AM potential dawn landing which is home to the largest king penguin colony in South Georgia with some 150,000 pairs ….so early to bed nite nite ……

Day 11 – Wednesday February 23rd Elephant Island and the Scotia Sea

Woke up this morning on slightly heavy seas. Lots of rolling to hear that we would make Elephant Island by about 11.00AM – good methinks

 

However did not plan on the weather and seas getting worse – we were unable to land at Elephant Island due to the weather seas as high as 8-10 meters, but that was fine as we got to go really close and see the two place’s Shackleton’s party landed – so inhospitable even today – see below

We are now sailing towards South Georgia Island across the Scotia Sea so maybe no update for tomorrow s we will be at sea all day! Hope its flat ……

Day 9 – Monday February 22nd Heading North

After steaming out over night after we were told this morning that it had been a fairly slow passage due to lots of ice and heavy fog but quite flat. As we have been so far south we now need to concentrate on our journey to South Georgia (via Elephant Island although we are not sure if we will be able to land) so we expected a more relaxed day today. This was not an issue bearing in mind all of the recent days excitement.

We steamed for most of the morning then the ship was brought halt and we were surrounded by icebergs and floating ice, but moreover it was foggy …the word I used was eerie, dead quite, flat calm and misty. I hope you can get some idea of this from the photograph

Once everyone was back on the ship it was announce that a Polar PLUNGE was on offer for those who cared to jump into the Antarctica Waters – I did think about then laid down and the feeling went off !! About 15 -20 people did give it ago. …Well done them, but it really did look very cold from the reactions of people who did it – they said the temperature was 28 degrees F so that is sub zero degrees C I think. Cold anyway.

Every evening between about 6-7 we get an update on that day, various information on what we have seen and an update for the next day – it is well done but this evening we were in for a treat. One of the expedition staff has a license (one of the first) to be allowed to fly a drone in Antarctica and he showed us some stunning footage of yesterday including The Orca’s, Glacier ‘s, Icebergs, The Ship, and more, it was fantastic and really did show from on high what I am privileged enough to be experiencing.

So finally we are advised that tomorrow is the day we head out of Antarctica but not before n early stop at Cuverville Island weather permitting – so we are told all being well a early call of 6.30AM to board the zodiacs for a landing.

 

 

Day 10 – Tuesday February 23rd The Dash to South Georgia

As forecast “Ding Dong” at 6.30AM, on the dot.

As we sail into Guverville Island, named by the French Admiral Adrien de Garlache, it is a little overcast, with cloud on the top of the hills, the Orion is anchored close to the shore among so many magnificent icebergs and with an impressive glacier in the background. Around 8.00AM the ferrying of guests to the beach commences. We head for a large penguin colony with many penguins still molting. Also interesting to note the number of penguin corpses on the beach – it is a tough life being a penguin methinks.

So we all toured the beaches and then jump a zodiac for a tour of the icebergs and back to the Orion by about 10.00AM

 

 

 

At 10.30AM all back on board and the ship is secured. We are advised that we are setting off steaming north in the Gerlache Strait (hope you still have your maps out) heading for Elephant Island on our way to South Georgia. Elephant Island is the place made famous by Shackleton’s 1914-1917 Endurance Expedition. After being beset in ice for 281 days and the sinking of the Endurance the party of 28 men used life boats and drifting ice flows to make their way north towards land. Three months later they landed at Elephant Island.

No sooner have we set off and a call of “whales” is heard, people head on deck and we are surrounded by Humpback Whales in front and to the left and right of us. In fact as I was about to leave my cabin I saw one surface right next to my port hole. When I got on deck you could see many blows close and in the distance, with flukes appearing as the whales dive for food. This spectacular went on for 40 minutes or more, with a calf literally playing at the bow of the ship while the mother dived for food…. Incredible!

So that was my day ….we now steam on for the rest of today and overnight. We have been told to “secure out cabins” so could be bumpy. Then, tomorrow steaming all day with hopefully a stop at Elephant Island – weather dependent.

 

Day 7 – Sunday February 21th into the Antarctic Circle

We were awoken over the ships PA at around 6.30 AM and advised that we were about 2 miles from the Antarctic Circle and if people wanted to enjoy that moment, head up on deck or to the Bridge – so I headed up to the Bridge were you can watch all the displays, and that’s what exactly what I did. I crossed into Antarctic Circle around 07.00AM Sunday 21^st February 2016. There was a lot of cheering and ships horn blowing. We had made it further south than most on these trips.

We proceeded south through the ice, incredible ice flows, icebergs, wildlife in fact I have run out of superlatives on the experiences that I am seeing and sensing, and I am not even half way through my adventure. We finally came to this huge iceberg, then started to steam into the pack ice, after all Orion is an ice strengthened ship, we kept going until the ship could go no further and was stopped by the ice. I need to let the pictures tell this story methinks

This all happening before 10.30AM so then on the rear deck a traditional German “Fruhschoppen” was held – Sausages, Beer and Bloody Mary’s – The Captain is German.

We continued to sail into Crystal Sound and everyone after the thrills of the morning had either gone to their cabins, were siting in the lounge reading, chatting to friends, and looking at their photographs!

By lunchtime we had arrived at Crystal Sound and yet another announcement “come and see this iceberg” someone on deck explained that is was “cathedral like” I think that was a very good description. I do not think any photograph can truly do this phenomenon justice, it was a maze of ice caves and cavern’s with incredible amounts of blue ice.

We steamed on further and further south continuing through ice flows, beautiful surroundings in Crystal Sound. Then a pod of Killer Whales is sighted, a dozen or more – What next I ask myself?

Onward we go after watching the whales for an hour or so finally arriving at pack ice. The Captain drove the ship into the ice and the adventures continued. Back in the zodiacs and off to go kayaking around the sound. Forty-five minutes later are back in the Zodiacs heading across the bay as a Emperor Penguin has been spotted, I did not realize how rare they are, this animal stayed for hours in fact after dinner (long long day light hours here) you could, if you wish go back out on the ice. The Captain even insisted that he sent his crew to see the penguin, as it is such a rare sight here.

To try to convey the experience and excitement of the day, bearing in mind we had all crossed in to the Antarctic Circle at around 7.00AM that morning. There was a point when all were back onboard the ship, which was much later than normal days. People were all in the lounge and the Captain, plus what they call Expedition Leader walked through and there was spontaneous applause, why? Because by that time we knew we had seen incredible things in previous days, but this day just topped all that, we were now further south than the majority of these trips ever get…I keep saying it but lucky me I really do feel that way.

Tonight when all tucked up in our cabins the ship will turn around and head north towards South Georgia and then onto The Falkland Islands. My understanding is that most of tomorrow will be steaming but I am sure that will be punctuated by lectures, which are worth attending.

Over and out ……..

Day 7 – Flanders Bay, Lemaire Channel and Penola Strait.

Well! What a start to the day by 10.00AM we had seen huge snowflakes the size of saucers, incredible icebergs plus sighting a Whale Wow! Ooops sorry excited Chap!!

So it is now day seven, and it is very interesting for me to watch the dynamics of all the guests and crew on the ship settle into this voyage. Also nice for me to be a part of that, after all we have now only covered just over a third of our trip but the mood on board is very good as people get to know each other. Albeit the ship is very well supplied there is not a 7/11 round the corner, so people help each other when things have been forgotten, lost, or go wrong which is nice. Additionally I have found more of routine to find time to do things I would like to do, such as write this blog. Whereas at the start everything was rushed as one could not find time or get properly connected (so apologies for some of my early posts, albeit I did set a caveat before I started this blog on spelling and grammar – some was really poor). Currently we are still in the Antarctic Peninsular steaming south. The ship outran the storm last nigh, so that was great, and we had a wonderful day today albeit it was a “Magical Mystery Tour” as the team on the ship were planning as they went depending on weather and ice flows – but I did not meet one guest who was disappointed.

As we awoke we were navigating though a sea full of iceberg’s, some of them huge and quite spectacular. It was then announced throughout the ship that the Captain “rather liked icebergs “ and that there was a spectacular one ahead. We headed toward it, at the same time guests headed for the decks. It was spectacular and as the ship slowed, what appeared? A whale, this was followed by the ship actually nudging the iceberg (Its OK Ann Marie, he did it on purpose I am OK, albeit Titanic jokes were made, no need to dust off the Will just yet)

We then headed on a little and the ship stopped. Zodiacs were off loaded and we set off with just a few in each boat (5 in ours, normally to go ashore 10-12) for a 45 minute cruise through the ice flows, cold but worth it loads of Crab Catcher seals.

After this we started to cruise towards the Lemaire Channel seven miles long and one mile wide with spectacular peaks and glaciers on each side. This was a real treat huge amount of blue ice formations.

But it did not end there a short while later the ship stops and we are back in the Zodiacs heading for shore to a set of islands charted by Jean Baptiste Charcot a very successful polar explorer, apparently his fame is based on scientific discoveries, but moreover by the fact he never lost any men. Interesting a lot of guest did not go ashore for this, I think because we had done so much that day, but glad I did. Interesting point to note one of the experts on this trip is a guy called Tom Ritchie, an American – really nice chap but moreover he has been with Lindblad for over 30 years and started on the first journeys to this part of the world with the original Mr. Lindblad – his knowledge passion and enthusiasm is infectious. I saw him on a video prior to my trip and certainly did not expect to see him here, but he is and even one of the other staff I was talking too said this was the first time they had seen him on a trip. So I tend to go on the landings I can with him this was one of them and did not disappoint. Back to the landing, we went to where Charcot set up base and anchored his ship, and learnt a lot from Tom about the area and the history. I would say that is one of the things I am enjoying about this trip with National Geographic, the spectacular scenery of course, but the fact that the experts on board, be it the “Toms” of this world, the team that dive under the ice, bringing back footage, or the photographers who help you, they are all very knowledge, helpful and approachable.

We now head south to see if we can get as far as the Antarctica Circle, very few trips get that far – some 10% only so here’s hoping – stay tuned as they say…..

 

Day 6 – Friday February 19^th – Neko Harbour and Port Lockroy

Starting to learn that what you might think is going to happen the next day may or may not happen!! – or it could be completely different, met the Captain last night and it is clear that they try to maximize the day based on conditions, weather, tide etc.

As I mentioned was the Captain’s dinner table last night (just thought I would slip that in again!!) all very nice but as this finished they advised that were going to go into a small bay, which was an old whaling station. It was blowing a gale with sleet and rain, but they go so close with the ship that you could see so much detail but wow was it cold on deck! So to the next day..

We were advised if conditions were good we may get a call this morning about 4.00AM to look at some of the scenery on our travels to our location this morning …but apparently the weather when from sleet to rain to snow, winds blowing and then fog so it did not happen

But we did arrive at this bay at Neko Harbour this morning and went ashore – incredible glaciers – there are a lot of those here, plus many Gentoo Penguin’s (hope you are impressed) Skuas and Kelp Gulls. Only several minuets to get ashore from the Orion, surrounded by a bay of magnificent scenery, mountains and snow and it was zero degrees C and actually with the layers one was wearing too hot would you believe? Neko was named after a whale factory ship that operated from 1911.

We then left there sailing across the Gerlache Strait (I tell you all this as I know you all have a map of Antarctica on your walls and you are tracking my intrepid journey!) heading to Port Lockroy used to be an anchorage for whalers and established as Base A by the British in 1944 as part of a wartime initiative to monitor German shipping movements it even has a gift shop and post office today but was a civilian station until 1964. When I initially read about this it was not real on my “must do list” after all I had not come to Antarctica to go to a gift shop! However it was more fascinating than I imagined, as it was a museum as well as a little gift shop. The whole place including the little island it was on were tiny. The museum was essentially the renovated base as it contained items from the time– even saw telecommunication equipment that my Dad had shown me when I was a little boy …this was better than I expected and of course lots of penguins!!

Another exciting day, I know I keep saying this – but truly sensational scenery – hope the few pictures help provide some insight on what it looks like along with the scale. Be thankful that my ramblings do not carry the smell of Penguin.

At 18.00 tonight had the briefing which was a tad alarming there is a huge storm looming. So as I mentioned before the team on the boat plan daily – so anchor overnight here, normally we travel over night. They plan to beat the weather, which could involve 8-10 meter seas, and sail south in the morning meaning we could get very very south. Most people on the ship got very excited at this point as this does not normally happen that you get that far south apparently so I tried to appear knowledgeable too and got excited. So the plan as I write is Flanders Bay, Lemaire Channel and Penola Strait.

Note I estimate a loss in blog, as the satellite connection gets weaker to non-existent that far south I am informed (yep! we have a satellite expert on board mmm very interesting!) so lets see!!!….. “Ware of Antarctica” signing off

Day 5 – Drakes Passage – arrival at the ICE !!!

This morning we were awoken a little earlier – with a 7.30AM announcement ( was already up) that we were progressing very well and the weather had been very kind over night only two to three meter swell…great! But too be honest it felt flat the ship is very well stabilised.

The morning comprised of several sessions a mandatory safety session plus the rules governing visits to Antarctica (IAATO) briefing (for those who are interested I suggest Google for more info) this was followed by a Biosecurity Decontamination session where basically outer garments bags etc. that are not new needed to inspected, cleaned and sanitized so as not to contaminate the mainland.

A lady by the name of Erin McFadden (yes a Scottish lass) an undersea specialist and Antarctic diver presenting the Southern Ocean also very good, as this was going on, Icebergs were passing the port holes and we were then told land Ahoy !! We could see Antarctica…..pretty amazing to be so far south, as I mentioned yesterday the South Shetland Islands…..Oh and at the same time my laundry was done !!

 

Then around two ashore we went – Aritos (not sure how its spelt – but with me that’s true of a lot of words ha ha) Island in the South Shetlands, we went in zodiacs – I do not really have the ability to put this into the written word without understating the experience for me anyway. First and foremost the – ice, seeing these huge lumps of ice floating in the sea that looked huge from the ship, six decks high, imagine how big they look when you are in a RIB. Then on land penguins and penguins and penguins and the smell if regurgitated fish and “penguin poo”..so glad it was cold if we had been experiencing Singapore temperatures God knows what it would have smelt like. The weather was blue sky and we were told that is very unusual for this part of Antarctica – so lucky me. Back on the Orion by about 5.00PM so about three house of the ship and the NG guides really do a great job pointing things out to you.

 

So not sure what tomorrow brings but tonight it is the Captains Cocktail Party and Welcome Dinner and guess who has an invitation to sit at the Captain’s Table – yep you have guess it, ME so just brushing down the DJ well, perhaps I forgot that.

(On a technical note I hope I posted a picture today and if I am luck we have a few here too – apologies the biggest challenge is the connectivity when its good its fine but it drops out a lot)

Off to rub shoulders with the Captain bye for now……..Nigel

Hello Everyone this is a picture of me ( in case you have not guessed) a couple of days back as we were heading to meet the ship Orion if this works then I might be able to send more pics thats the plan. You are looking at the most southerly point of Argentina with me spoiling the picture !!

Just for your as i send  information just arriving at Antartica passing Iceburgs it is now 12.45 PM on Thursday, can see Antarctica on the bow and going ashore this afternoon and me only just got me sea-legs !!!

 

A short update on my journey so far …

Well….. seven hours flight from Singapore to Sydney Australia, five hour stopover followed by a few hours flight to Aukland NZ and another stopover of two hours, a twelve hour flight to Santiago Chile has now gotton me 1o128 miles away from Singapore to my hotel here in Santiago – based on the time zone changes I think I almost arrived before I left as Santiago is 11 hours behind Singapore!!

That said it was a very good trip and is the pre-cursor to the real part of my adventure. After waiting for nearly an hour for baggage just got to the hotel in time for the briefing for tommorrow advising me that we have a 4.00AM wake up call and leaving the hotel in Santigao at 5.15AM to fly to a place call Ushuaia –  in Argentina. We then go on a Catamaran trip around the bay for lunch then join the ship National Geographic Orion with a sailing time of 16.00. Weather forcast at sea across Drake’s Passage is very good with only a three metre swell so based on the type of ship we should feel nothing – so I am told.  Fully expecting the temparature to drop a lot …..then off we go !!!….( sorry on my previous post got the departure date wrong …Jet lag and I had not even taken off !!!)

Not sure what connectivity will be from the ship but will update with pictures as soon as I can……

Cheers

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