Author: nigel.ware2@btinternet.com

Day 22 to 24 – 6th to 8th March – The Journey Home 

Two days travel – in the last two days I have travelled from my final destination in the Falkland Islands to arrive in Santiago – Chile via Ushuaia – Argentina to start the final leg of my journey home to Singapore.

I left home on the evening of the 14th February 2016 and I will arrive back in Singapore on the afternoon of 10th March almost a month later. I have had the most incredible trip and that is a HUGE understatement.

The trip has been a trip of three parts Antarctica, South Georgia then The Falkland Islands. It has be a trip of amazing landscapes, incredible oceans, fascinating wildlife on land, in the sea and air, and last but not least, history of the polar explorers such as Shackleton re tracing some of his journey and visiting his final resting place, along with the history and place’s in The Falklands…and more and more and more.

I have seen ice like I have never imagined. I have seen whales including Blue, Humpback, Orca and every type of penguin from the Emperor to the Chinstrap. Birds from the huge Wandering Albatrosses through to the tiny South Georgia Pipit. Elephant Seals to tiny seal pups.

But it is now over, 20 nights at sea on The National Geographic Orion, 3850 nautical miles of sailing and as I sit here awaiting to connect to my flight home to Singapore and writing the final post on the “Trip to Antarctica”. I think to myself what a very lucky guy I am to have been able to make this trip which was planned almost two years ago. A huge thank you to my lovely wife Ann Marie who has always told me to follow my dream, and go do it, and now I have. Now very much looking forward to get back to see Ann Marie, it has been a long time, a long way away.

To all those that have followed my ramblings, I hope you have enjoyed and thanks for the feedback and interest. If anyone wants to know anything further about my trip please just get in touch. I am sure I can be really boring, with such comments as would you like to see my 3000+ photographs?

Take care everyone

Bye for now

Nigel

Day 18, 19 & 20 – 2^nd,3^rd and 4th March – Back across the Scotia Sea – At Port Stanley

Well! Hello from the Falkland Islands ……a place I have always want to visit. It is one of the places that has over the centuries been subject to a number of arguments as to who has sovereignty and the most recent historic case of this question being raised again was within my lifetime and culminated in the Falkland’s War, following on from the Argentinian invasion in 1982 under General Galltirarie’s rule.

So last night during the late evening we anchored offshore for Port Stanley, this followed a very calm two day crossing from our final point of call, Elsehul, in South Georgia some 750 nautical miles to the south.

During the two days we enjoyed many talks and lectures on topics including, How do whales dive? The Falkland Islands. An introduction to the islands and their conflict status. 128 years of National Geographic Photography. How do divers dive? Plus several more, all very good stuff. And as I have said before I never expected the quantity or quality of the learning on this trip.

So back to the trip and our arrival at Port Stanley, interesting snippet of information the place is call Stanley, and the port is called Port Stanley. So after anchoring in the bay overnight I hear the anchor being raised at dawn and we dock at the port. Quite strange see a form of civilisation again and to be leaving the ship on foot rather that by zodiac. So we have some options today I choose to walk into Stanley in the morning and roam around on my own, rather than going on anything organised and in the afternoon join a hike to Mount Tumbledown were one of the famous battles was fought by the Scotts Guards during Falkland’s War in 1982.

In the morning following customs formalities completed by the ships personnel we are informed that we can go ashore. Buses are not due for another 45 minutes. I decide to disembark and walk into town and was pleased I did. It was quiet; I think I just saw the town of 2500 inhabitants before the tourists arrived. It is a small town and I visited the major landmarks including the Cathedral with its Whalebone Arch. The museum is a must; I spent considerable time there very informative about Stanley and The Falkland’s over the centuries.

After returning to the ship for a short while to change in to clothing appropriate for the afternoon hike I returned to shore to catch the shuttle. Interestingly very few people signed up for the Hike to Mount Tumbledown one of the famous battlegrounds of the Falklands War. We had 2 local guides, 2 crewmembers and 10 guests if I recall correctly. After a short drive we got out of the bus and started our hike across the peaty ground below, seeing areas where land mines have since been cleared. Old peat bogs where people used to collected their fuel, and interestingly several craters where the area was bombed but due to the nature of the soft peaty land apparently the impact of these bombs was minimal as the force was soaked up in many cases by the land. We continued towards Mount Tumbledown past Mount William (I think) being educated by our guide Brian, a Falkland Islander all his life, on the land, the plant life animals and the war, very informative. We continued to the summit and spent a few moments at the small manorial at the top set up in memory of the Scotts Guardsmen who lost their lives on Tumbledown an at the same time seeing evidence of the Argentinian dugouts, and remembering how many died also in this war of 74 days duration. I believe between both forces some 700-800 souls lost their lives here and in the waters around this area. As we walk back down we could see Stanley in the distance the small town of some 2500 inhabitants. A poignant walk.

 

We then got dropped back in Stanley just in time for a quick pint in the local pub with some newfound friends and back to Orion. Once on board Orion immediately cast off to head for the West Falklands for first thing the next day, Carcass Island and New Island.

 

Day 21 – 5th March – West Falklands

The last day! This is our last day of exploration in this amazing part of the world.First stop Carcass Island, a wet landing from the zodiacs onto the sandy beach called Leopard Beach on a lovely blue sky sunny morning to see many penguins cautiously staying out of the sea to avoid cruising leopard seals just off shore looking for breakfast! Then on for a beautiful walk of just under 4 miles across the hills along the coast to the Carcass Island Settlement, on route just enjoying the scenery and wildlife. Reminded me a bit of Scotland. Then back to the ship around midday to set off for our final landing destination New Island.

Finally departing Orion around 3.30pm on a zodiac we are warned this would be a wet ride as the wind was up and white horses abound on the waves – so ensure all cameras etc. are well protected. All aboard and we are off, then as if we have not see enough fantastic things on this trip all of a sudden our zodiac is surrounded by a pod of dolphins jumping and dancing so close – playing almost with zodiac – but of course no pictures as per the instructions we had no camera’s to hand, however watching people try to get to their cameras was a tad funny. We landed then hiked a mile or so into a very strong wind to the cliffs on the other side of the island. We arrived at a step cliff dropping down to the sea the noise of birds was very apparent, and here, because of the wind we could see many of the fabulous birds I have mentioned before including Black-browed Albatross, rockhopper penguins and many others

And that was that, it the last landing. I will end there for now as we head for another day and a half at sea back to Ushuaia – Chile and then to start my journey home to Singapore. But fear not I will provide a final update on the remainder of my trip in the next day or so please stay tuned…..

 

 

Day 16 – 29th February Hercules Bay and Prion Island

Following on from yesterdays “full on day” this morning started calmly with no wake up call, that said the motion of the ship and the expectation of what may happen today never leaves you sleeping in too long, it is always great to go up to the bridge or on deck first thing.

Everyone on board is now conscious that the second phase, South Georgia, of this three phase trip is nearing the end and we will soon be sailing on to The Falkland’s, that said we still have the best part of two days left here.

We are sailing towards Hercules Bay the plan is to anchor there and take a zodiac tour of the bay, it is full of wildlife, including fur and elephant seals, along with Macaroni penguins and nesting wandering Albatross. This morning the driver of our zodiac was Captain Martin himself. The bay is only 500 meters wide with towering cliffs very spectacular and picturesque.

After an hour or so in the bay the Orion sails on towards Prion Island. The morning gently roles on, the peace is suddenly broken with a very excited Expedition Leader, Doug, announcing that the bridge believe they have sighted Blue Whales (can be identified by the shape and height of the blow I have learnt) so get on deck, they are a rare sight. Everyone rushes to get warm clothes on grab cameras and binoculars and get on deck.

There they are two blue whales a mother and calf, we are told the mother is in the region of 33m long weighing 150tons, and the calf is the size of a humpback whale – what a sight – we watch for about half an hour before moving on, even the crew are going wow! they are not seen often, in fact after this the joke has become what have we left to see, we have really ticked the list on this trip.

Following all that excitement we continue to sail north into a wildlife rich area known as the Bay of Isles, these islands are on the Atlantic Ocean side of South Georgia Island. We anchor just off Prion Island. This island is “Specially Protected Area” as designated by the South Georgia Government and only a certain number of people allowed on the island at any one time. So we go ashore in two waves. The highlight of this visit is to see Wandering Albatross on their nests and we do. The Government has constructed two viewing platforms here, connected by a boardwalk, which provide excellent access. The rat free island (you recall I mentioned the rat eradication program) has meant that this area has become a mecca for these magnificent birds to breed. In additions the once very rate South Georgia pipits and burrowing petrels have also made a great comeback here.

So the penultimate day at South Georgia Island we now head out for our last day at Prince Olav Harbour and Elsehul.

Day 17 – 1st March Prince Olav Harbour & Elsehul

This is the last day in this part of the world. In the morning we had the option of kayaking or a hike. I chose the hike in Prince Olav Harbour. This site is full of history, explored by Captain James Cook, the harbour was well know to sealers and 20^th century whalers.

In the afternoon we sailed to Elsehul one of the most northern points and we have a short stop here before heading of from South Georgia.

Now we set off over night to head for The Falkland Islands we arrive there after 750 nautical miles, so two days travel at sea arriving early Friday morning, so for the next two days we will be looking out to on the Scotia Sea looking for wildlife. . We have been told to secure our cabins, but the forecast for the crossing is good…be in touch once in Stanley – Falkland Island

 Days 14 to 15  27^th to 28^th February

Hello everyone apologies for the “break in transmission” over the past few days but it has just been such a full on and exciting visit to South Georgia that finding time to post an update has proven a challenge.

Day 14 – 27th February St Andrews Bay & Gold Harbour

Ok – so here we are Saturday (I think) we first head off to St Andrews bay before sunrise, once the crew have checked the weather we receive a wake up call at 05.00AM yes 05.00AM announcing weather is good, coffee is served and we will be heading for the landing spot around 5.30am

As we arrive on the aft deck to board the zodiacs we know we have arrive at the largest King Penguin colony on South Georgia, about 150,000 pairs, plus Elephant, Fur seals, you can smell it! After a few hours on the beach we returned quick warm up, breakfast and then we return to the other end of what is a 3km beach. The prolific amount of wildlife and the activity is incredible, so many things to look at all at the same time. Several hours later we are back on the Orion heading for Gold Harbour.

 

After lunch and on our way to Gold Harbour we are invited to attend a briefing on a hike that is planned for the following day. The “Shackleton Hike” this talk including pictures explains what to expect if you want to go on the hike the following day -more about that in tomorrows update.

So we board the zodiacs for the third time today and head of to Gold bay another home for some 30.000 breading pairs of King Penguins and some big Elephant seals, also many large Albatross and Petrels soaring low across the penguin colony looking for food.

Today was a full on wildlife day – for me it was incredible to see so much wildlife completely oblivious to human presence and with not visible human intervention or pollution, quite different from my daily world.

Day 15 – 28th February Stromeness and Grytviken

 This is a day I have been very much looking forward to, one of the themes of this trip is to follow in the path of Sir Ernest Shackleton and today we get the opportunity walk the last part of his journey over the mountains to Stromeness, where he and two of his crewman, Copt Worseley and Tom Crean, completed their epic and historic journey from Elephant Island, to arrange rescue to save the rest of his crew stranded on Elephant island which if you recall is over 800 nautical miles form my current position.

Our day commences with a early morning call, as I look out of my port hole we are advised we have traveled to Fortuna Bay, named after the ship Fortuna, one of the ships of the Norwegian – Argentine whaling expedition led by C.A.Larsen who established the first permanent whaling station in Grytviken in 1904 to1905. It is 08.00am when we board the zodiacs for the beach to set of on our hike. The hike is about 4km climbing from sea level up the mountains at the rear of the beach to approximately 1000 feet /300m high to join the last leg of Shackleton’s journey as he crossed the mountains on a 36 hour hike across South Georgia from where they had landed their tiny lifeboat to reach help. The weather was very good for us as we hiked up the mountain and getting near the top we come across Crean Lake – so named after Tom Crene, he fell in the lake as he crossed on to its frozen surface. We passed the lake climbed a little further then could see Stromeness and its dilapidated whaling station buildings. I was a tough steep climb down, but was great to do, and think back to what these three great men achieved under Shackleton leadership.

Back on board we eagerly awaited our next stop Grytviken, just around the bay, a short sail.

Early afternoon we had a member of the shore based team at Grytviken come aboard an give a short talk on South Georgia, with specific insight into the “rat eradication program” which appears to have successfully eradicated rat presence on the whole of South Georgia, giving what was almost extinct wildlife species, such as the Pipet birdthe only song bird on the island, the opportunity to significantly recover its numbers here. Soon after this we head for shore at Grytviken, a whaling station that was still in use up to 1965.

First stop, the final resting place of Sir Earnest Shackleton – here one of our excellent expedition leaders – Tom Ritche gave a short talk on the final days of Shackleton followed by us all drinking a toast to the great man.

We then enjoyed tours of Grytviken including its church, museum and buildings, followed by a second tour specifically around the ruins of the whaling station, which albeit a little gruesome, was exceptionally informative

Then finally the sister ship of Orion – The NG Explorer joined us in the next bay to celebrate 100 years Shackleton and 50 years of Lindblad and we were all ferried backyards and forward in zodiacs between ships

 

What a great day! More to follow …………

 

Days 11/12/13 – 24^th to 26^th February

I think must be losing the plot “all at sea” have noticed I have been getting days and dates wrong by one day in recent posts. So to get back on track I am now writing this on Friday 26^th February late in the evening. Since leaving Elephant Island on 24^th we have been steadily steaming across the Scotia Sea for the past two days and have now arrived at the southerly point of South Georgia near Cape Disappointment, so named when Captain Cook, on board his ship Resolution realised he had not found the continent of Antarctica The total distance covered from Elephant Island to South Georgia approximately 830 nautical miles, we reach South Georgia around 6.00 pm today.

So what have we been doing for the last two days, more than I imagined. I think I have mentioned before that I really thought one would have more time to ones self on this trip, just not true. The past two-days have been punctuated with lectures on anything from Antarctic Krill, Photography, Introductions on South Georgia to The history of Shackleton.

As I travel across this huge ocean still with its occasional icebergs, I, along with others onboard cannot start to imagine what Shackleton and his men, in a tiny boat, went though on their journey from Elephant Island to South Georgia. For us, in this vast ship, fully stabilised, it has still been rocky with rolling seas and swells of up to 4 meters, snow, rain etc. and central heating, food, hot showers. Then when we do venture out in our technical clothing to keeps us warm, and we still say we are cold! 100 years ago they had none of this – incredible achievement.

While on the topic of icebergs as we get nearer South Georgia we see more huge tabular icebergs, which we are told, will have traveled the 800 plus miles from Antarctica, I have included pictures with people ie me in to try and give some scale to the pictures.

Arriving at South Georgia we are told zodiac trips are on but it is cold so wrap up and the trips will only be about 20 minutes – on the trip it is cold very cold – feels colder than further south but great trip seeing many Macaroni Penguins, seals and bird life in Cooper Bay just round from Cape Disappointment, The wild life we see in that 20 minutes on the zodiacs is prolific, more excitement.

So that was my Friday arriving in South Georgia, so we now sail round to Saint Andrews Bay for a 5.00AM potential dawn landing which is home to the largest king penguin colony in South Georgia with some 150,000 pairs ….so early to bed nite nite ……

Day 11 – Wednesday February 23rd Elephant Island and the Scotia Sea

Woke up this morning on slightly heavy seas. Lots of rolling to hear that we would make Elephant Island by about 11.00AM – good methinks

 

However did not plan on the weather and seas getting worse – we were unable to land at Elephant Island due to the weather seas as high as 8-10 meters, but that was fine as we got to go really close and see the two place’s Shackleton’s party landed – so inhospitable even today – see below

We are now sailing towards South Georgia Island across the Scotia Sea so maybe no update for tomorrow s we will be at sea all day! Hope its flat ……

Day 9 – Monday February 22nd Heading North

After steaming out over night after we were told this morning that it had been a fairly slow passage due to lots of ice and heavy fog but quite flat. As we have been so far south we now need to concentrate on our journey to South Georgia (via Elephant Island although we are not sure if we will be able to land) so we expected a more relaxed day today. This was not an issue bearing in mind all of the recent days excitement.

We steamed for most of the morning then the ship was brought halt and we were surrounded by icebergs and floating ice, but moreover it was foggy …the word I used was eerie, dead quite, flat calm and misty. I hope you can get some idea of this from the photograph

Once everyone was back on the ship it was announce that a Polar PLUNGE was on offer for those who cared to jump into the Antarctica Waters – I did think about then laid down and the feeling went off !! About 15 -20 people did give it ago. …Well done them, but it really did look very cold from the reactions of people who did it – they said the temperature was 28 degrees F so that is sub zero degrees C I think. Cold anyway.

Every evening between about 6-7 we get an update on that day, various information on what we have seen and an update for the next day – it is well done but this evening we were in for a treat. One of the expedition staff has a license (one of the first) to be allowed to fly a drone in Antarctica and he showed us some stunning footage of yesterday including The Orca’s, Glacier ‘s, Icebergs, The Ship, and more, it was fantastic and really did show from on high what I am privileged enough to be experiencing.

So finally we are advised that tomorrow is the day we head out of Antarctica but not before n early stop at Cuverville Island weather permitting – so we are told all being well a early call of 6.30AM to board the zodiacs for a landing.

 

 

Day 10 – Tuesday February 23rd The Dash to South Georgia

As forecast “Ding Dong” at 6.30AM, on the dot.

As we sail into Guverville Island, named by the French Admiral Adrien de Garlache, it is a little overcast, with cloud on the top of the hills, the Orion is anchored close to the shore among so many magnificent icebergs and with an impressive glacier in the background. Around 8.00AM the ferrying of guests to the beach commences. We head for a large penguin colony with many penguins still molting. Also interesting to note the number of penguin corpses on the beach – it is a tough life being a penguin methinks.

So we all toured the beaches and then jump a zodiac for a tour of the icebergs and back to the Orion by about 10.00AM

 

 

 

At 10.30AM all back on board and the ship is secured. We are advised that we are setting off steaming north in the Gerlache Strait (hope you still have your maps out) heading for Elephant Island on our way to South Georgia. Elephant Island is the place made famous by Shackleton’s 1914-1917 Endurance Expedition. After being beset in ice for 281 days and the sinking of the Endurance the party of 28 men used life boats and drifting ice flows to make their way north towards land. Three months later they landed at Elephant Island.

No sooner have we set off and a call of “whales” is heard, people head on deck and we are surrounded by Humpback Whales in front and to the left and right of us. In fact as I was about to leave my cabin I saw one surface right next to my port hole. When I got on deck you could see many blows close and in the distance, with flukes appearing as the whales dive for food. This spectacular went on for 40 minutes or more, with a calf literally playing at the bow of the ship while the mother dived for food…. Incredible!

So that was my day ….we now steam on for the rest of today and overnight. We have been told to “secure out cabins” so could be bumpy. Then, tomorrow steaming all day with hopefully a stop at Elephant Island – weather dependent.

 

Day 7 – Sunday February 21th into the Antarctic Circle

We were awoken over the ships PA at around 6.30 AM and advised that we were about 2 miles from the Antarctic Circle and if people wanted to enjoy that moment, head up on deck or to the Bridge – so I headed up to the Bridge were you can watch all the displays, and that’s what exactly what I did. I crossed into Antarctic Circle around 07.00AM Sunday 21^st February 2016. There was a lot of cheering and ships horn blowing. We had made it further south than most on these trips.

We proceeded south through the ice, incredible ice flows, icebergs, wildlife in fact I have run out of superlatives on the experiences that I am seeing and sensing, and I am not even half way through my adventure. We finally came to this huge iceberg, then started to steam into the pack ice, after all Orion is an ice strengthened ship, we kept going until the ship could go no further and was stopped by the ice. I need to let the pictures tell this story methinks

This all happening before 10.30AM so then on the rear deck a traditional German “Fruhschoppen” was held – Sausages, Beer and Bloody Mary’s – The Captain is German.

We continued to sail into Crystal Sound and everyone after the thrills of the morning had either gone to their cabins, were siting in the lounge reading, chatting to friends, and looking at their photographs!

By lunchtime we had arrived at Crystal Sound and yet another announcement “come and see this iceberg” someone on deck explained that is was “cathedral like” I think that was a very good description. I do not think any photograph can truly do this phenomenon justice, it was a maze of ice caves and cavern’s with incredible amounts of blue ice.

We steamed on further and further south continuing through ice flows, beautiful surroundings in Crystal Sound. Then a pod of Killer Whales is sighted, a dozen or more – What next I ask myself?

Onward we go after watching the whales for an hour or so finally arriving at pack ice. The Captain drove the ship into the ice and the adventures continued. Back in the zodiacs and off to go kayaking around the sound. Forty-five minutes later are back in the Zodiacs heading across the bay as a Emperor Penguin has been spotted, I did not realize how rare they are, this animal stayed for hours in fact after dinner (long long day light hours here) you could, if you wish go back out on the ice. The Captain even insisted that he sent his crew to see the penguin, as it is such a rare sight here.

To try to convey the experience and excitement of the day, bearing in mind we had all crossed in to the Antarctic Circle at around 7.00AM that morning. There was a point when all were back onboard the ship, which was much later than normal days. People were all in the lounge and the Captain, plus what they call Expedition Leader walked through and there was spontaneous applause, why? Because by that time we knew we had seen incredible things in previous days, but this day just topped all that, we were now further south than the majority of these trips ever get…I keep saying it but lucky me I really do feel that way.

Tonight when all tucked up in our cabins the ship will turn around and head north towards South Georgia and then onto The Falkland Islands. My understanding is that most of tomorrow will be steaming but I am sure that will be punctuated by lectures, which are worth attending.

Over and out ……..

Day 7 – Flanders Bay, Lemaire Channel and Penola Strait.

Well! What a start to the day by 10.00AM we had seen huge snowflakes the size of saucers, incredible icebergs plus sighting a Whale Wow! Ooops sorry excited Chap!!

So it is now day seven, and it is very interesting for me to watch the dynamics of all the guests and crew on the ship settle into this voyage. Also nice for me to be a part of that, after all we have now only covered just over a third of our trip but the mood on board is very good as people get to know each other. Albeit the ship is very well supplied there is not a 7/11 round the corner, so people help each other when things have been forgotten, lost, or go wrong which is nice. Additionally I have found more of routine to find time to do things I would like to do, such as write this blog. Whereas at the start everything was rushed as one could not find time or get properly connected (so apologies for some of my early posts, albeit I did set a caveat before I started this blog on spelling and grammar – some was really poor). Currently we are still in the Antarctic Peninsular steaming south. The ship outran the storm last nigh, so that was great, and we had a wonderful day today albeit it was a “Magical Mystery Tour” as the team on the ship were planning as they went depending on weather and ice flows – but I did not meet one guest who was disappointed.

As we awoke we were navigating though a sea full of iceberg’s, some of them huge and quite spectacular. It was then announced throughout the ship that the Captain “rather liked icebergs “ and that there was a spectacular one ahead. We headed toward it, at the same time guests headed for the decks. It was spectacular and as the ship slowed, what appeared? A whale, this was followed by the ship actually nudging the iceberg (Its OK Ann Marie, he did it on purpose I am OK, albeit Titanic jokes were made, no need to dust off the Will just yet)

We then headed on a little and the ship stopped. Zodiacs were off loaded and we set off with just a few in each boat (5 in ours, normally to go ashore 10-12) for a 45 minute cruise through the ice flows, cold but worth it loads of Crab Catcher seals.

After this we started to cruise towards the Lemaire Channel seven miles long and one mile wide with spectacular peaks and glaciers on each side. This was a real treat huge amount of blue ice formations.

But it did not end there a short while later the ship stops and we are back in the Zodiacs heading for shore to a set of islands charted by Jean Baptiste Charcot a very successful polar explorer, apparently his fame is based on scientific discoveries, but moreover by the fact he never lost any men. Interesting a lot of guest did not go ashore for this, I think because we had done so much that day, but glad I did. Interesting point to note one of the experts on this trip is a guy called Tom Ritchie, an American – really nice chap but moreover he has been with Lindblad for over 30 years and started on the first journeys to this part of the world with the original Mr. Lindblad – his knowledge passion and enthusiasm is infectious. I saw him on a video prior to my trip and certainly did not expect to see him here, but he is and even one of the other staff I was talking too said this was the first time they had seen him on a trip. So I tend to go on the landings I can with him this was one of them and did not disappoint. Back to the landing, we went to where Charcot set up base and anchored his ship, and learnt a lot from Tom about the area and the history. I would say that is one of the things I am enjoying about this trip with National Geographic, the spectacular scenery of course, but the fact that the experts on board, be it the “Toms” of this world, the team that dive under the ice, bringing back footage, or the photographers who help you, they are all very knowledge, helpful and approachable.

We now head south to see if we can get as far as the Antarctica Circle, very few trips get that far – some 10% only so here’s hoping – stay tuned as they say…..

 

Day 6 – Friday February 19^th – Neko Harbour and Port Lockroy

Starting to learn that what you might think is going to happen the next day may or may not happen!! – or it could be completely different, met the Captain last night and it is clear that they try to maximize the day based on conditions, weather, tide etc.

As I mentioned was the Captain’s dinner table last night (just thought I would slip that in again!!) all very nice but as this finished they advised that were going to go into a small bay, which was an old whaling station. It was blowing a gale with sleet and rain, but they go so close with the ship that you could see so much detail but wow was it cold on deck! So to the next day..

We were advised if conditions were good we may get a call this morning about 4.00AM to look at some of the scenery on our travels to our location this morning …but apparently the weather when from sleet to rain to snow, winds blowing and then fog so it did not happen

But we did arrive at this bay at Neko Harbour this morning and went ashore – incredible glaciers – there are a lot of those here, plus many Gentoo Penguin’s (hope you are impressed) Skuas and Kelp Gulls. Only several minuets to get ashore from the Orion, surrounded by a bay of magnificent scenery, mountains and snow and it was zero degrees C and actually with the layers one was wearing too hot would you believe? Neko was named after a whale factory ship that operated from 1911.

We then left there sailing across the Gerlache Strait (I tell you all this as I know you all have a map of Antarctica on your walls and you are tracking my intrepid journey!) heading to Port Lockroy used to be an anchorage for whalers and established as Base A by the British in 1944 as part of a wartime initiative to monitor German shipping movements it even has a gift shop and post office today but was a civilian station until 1964. When I initially read about this it was not real on my “must do list” after all I had not come to Antarctica to go to a gift shop! However it was more fascinating than I imagined, as it was a museum as well as a little gift shop. The whole place including the little island it was on were tiny. The museum was essentially the renovated base as it contained items from the time– even saw telecommunication equipment that my Dad had shown me when I was a little boy …this was better than I expected and of course lots of penguins!!

Another exciting day, I know I keep saying this – but truly sensational scenery – hope the few pictures help provide some insight on what it looks like along with the scale. Be thankful that my ramblings do not carry the smell of Penguin.

At 18.00 tonight had the briefing which was a tad alarming there is a huge storm looming. So as I mentioned before the team on the boat plan daily – so anchor overnight here, normally we travel over night. They plan to beat the weather, which could involve 8-10 meter seas, and sail south in the morning meaning we could get very very south. Most people on the ship got very excited at this point as this does not normally happen that you get that far south apparently so I tried to appear knowledgeable too and got excited. So the plan as I write is Flanders Bay, Lemaire Channel and Penola Strait.

Note I estimate a loss in blog, as the satellite connection gets weaker to non-existent that far south I am informed (yep! we have a satellite expert on board mmm very interesting!) so lets see!!!….. “Ware of Antarctica” signing off